Fashion Marketing encourages
desire and aspiration through the construction of images of perfection. Is this acceptable?
The fashion industry relies on the use of images of
perfection to influence consumer behaviour. The most successful brands have
taken the generic approach to new heights; the must have look strategy prey
upon audience desire to belong and look great. One of the most influential
brands that market this way is Abercrombie and Fitch. This essay will evaluate
and discuss the different marketing techniques and strategies that many super
brands rely on to bring in the consumers and take advantage of there insecurities
and emotions.
Abercrombie and Fitch was opened in Manhattan in 1892
by David
T. Abercrombie and Ezra H. Fitch. It was a store that sold sporting and
excursion goods and now currently a retailer for exclusive casual wear.
Abercrombie
and Fitch are all about buying into an expensive yet desirable lifestyle brand.
In their words they are ‘aspirational’ they cater for only the preppy, Ivy
League lifestyle with no real variation in style these are all qualities that
make this brand extremely recognisable. They live and breathe the look through
every aspect of their brand. In their stores the staff are really models. The
black and white advertisements/photos of young people living the lifestyle they
want you to buy into. The shopping theatre experience, dark lighting, and
iconic scent, all create that image and atmosphere, One in which only people
who are worthy can have.
A&F
is targeted at 18 to 22 year olds of both genders, who aspire to be like what
they see on Abercrombie and Fitch’s advertisements; the preppy, Ivy League
beautiful people look.
Although
A&F is targeted at young adults it actually attracts a huge following of
young teenagers who want the look. Lucky for them its now more affordable as
A&F are one of three brands, Gilly Hicks and Hollister who sell identical
products and ‘lifestyle’ but for a lesser price. In theory people with more
money will pay far more for an A&F logo on a piece of clothing they can
find identical in Hollister, no difference in quality but to them a huge
difference in Brand.
They’re
clever in choosing such an insecure generation to target as their main consumer
because this age group is just dying to fit in. Then by providing them with such
an ‘impossible to achieve’ image to aspire to, which has been massively photo
shopped, just to sell clothes, is this right?
The
CEO of Abercrombie and Fitch and most controversial man in retail Mike Jeffries
says “We hire good-looking people in our stores. Because good-looking people
attract other good-looking people, and we want to market to cool, good-looking
people. We don't market to anyone other than that." (Mike Jeffries, 2008)
And it’s this kind of attitude that gives
young people such a complex about their body image when they’re surrounded by
images of something they’re not.
Abercrombie and Fitchs best but
unethical marketing tool is the way in which they use ‘classical conditioning’
this is done by tapping into your emotions giving you a direct link between two
things. This is a successful way of marketing in most cases but how A&F use
it is definitely pushing the ethical boundary. They make you associate their
products with physical beauty and sexual desire by giving you very consistent
images of beautiful flawless men and women and never really changing the look
of their images so it’s extremely recognizable and easy to make the link
between the brand and flawless beauty. In their eyes they are doing this to
achieve a ‘harmless response’ from the audience when seeing their brand, but are
gradually making young people think with their hormones and not their heads
harmless?
A certain case in late 2011 stirred up
more controversy within the US when A&F put up a huge billboard covering
the stretch of their soon to open shop. The image was that of a half-naked
extremely muscly man with most attention being drawn to the area where his hand
was pushing down his low slung jeans. Now perhaps in their quarterly magazine
this would have been acceptable but to a mass audience on such a large scale,
apparently not. The advertising standards authority did not agree they went to
other major authorities in a bid to have it taken down but due to outdoor
advertising being a self-regulated industry nothing could be done about the
controversial ad.
The image of the man half nude was
definitely trying to send an erotic message, no doubt about it. This is clear
due to the abs that has most probably been photos shopped, giving the image of
strength and attractiveness. Black and white effect makes it more mysterious
and dark. All these things help trigger an emotion and all of them make you
want to buy the brand, because if you’re not buff already, you think you can be
with the clothes, if you’re a girl and single, you think buying the clothes
will get you a man like in the ad. On the other hand, if you don’t look like
that and don’t have the money or confidence, you don’t buy into it, you don’t
feel worthy.
It’s not only Abercrombie and Fitch who
portray this idea of sexual desire through their brand, there are so many like
it, Diesel and American Apparel for example. Although American Apparel don’t
use any Photoshop on their images which is a good thing because it’s real and
not impossible but how they come across is in a highly sexual nature, which
makes it dirty almost. These brands don’t make good sales on the look of their
clothes or quality because in fact A&F and American Apparel clothing is
very simple, they make massive sales based on erotic feelings, not clothes.
An example of American Apparels
controversial advertising is the add with model Lauren Phoenix wearing nothing
but a pair of their tube socks and then small headshots of her making highly provocative
faces. The fact that they don’t tamper with the photographs, such as the ones
of Phoenix makes the images even more realistic looking, especially when they
are posing in such ways.
Not forgetting that these brands also
sell to young children making the suggestive images even more outrageous and
controversial. Growing up surrounded by all these photo shopped images of good
looking people is going to have a huge impact on their self-esteem, and how
they should look. A child who sees an image of a skinny girl, skinnier than her
will automatically make them feel as if they don’t look right and they will do
something about it, possibly causing an eating disorder. All the images of men
wearing nothing but a pair of jeans or boxers, playing around in the grass
together can give a child a very different outlook on sexuality, making it look
the norm for men to be with men and women to be with women.
References
1.
http://retailindustry.about.com/od/frontlinemanagement/a/AbercrombieFitchMikeJeffriesquotes.htm (last accessed, 20/03/2012)
2.
http://www.salon.com/2006/01/24/jeffries/
(last accessed, 19/03/2012)
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